Finally I am getting back to my trip to Xichang to visit Jo Charles and see what she has been doing with her foundation. On Saturday (the 20th) our little group rose early to travel to Happiness Village (yes, it’s called Haha in the Yi language). In case I haven’t told you, this was the real purpose of our trip to Xichang — to attend the dedication of a new school built by Charles Foundation funds in cooperation with the local government. In addition to being rundown, the old school had been built in a flood plain beyond the edge of town, a downright dangerous spot for the children.
Over a two-hour period the road got steadily worse, and for the last forty-five minutes we snaked through hard-scrabble fields where the farmers had cleared away stones and deposited them on the road.
the road we came in on
By the time our bus was completely stopped while waiting for a cart to move, we were itching to just get out and walk, as Happiness Village was in clear view ahead.
But we were patient and drove on, in my case, glad to have had a moment to get out and settle my carsick stomach. In a few minutes, the new school was obvious — large, fresh-painted, and festooned with red decorations. And then we noticed: Look, they’re all lined up to greet us!
Indeed, when we parked the van at the old school, along with cars of the various government officials and media types who were also attending, we were greeted by four ladies (who turned out to be teachers) in Yi dress who solemnly led us along the path to the town.
Suddenly, I got a little nervous, and our group grew quiet. In the distance, kids began chanting something in unison and waving, then stopped when we paused in our approach to get Jo out front and center for the cameras. But when we began moving again, they resumed, calling out Huanying! (Welcome! and waving fronds as we passed through the gauntlet.
Before the ceremony began, we had a few minutes to take a look at the school. It’s bright and airy, consisting of eight classrooms on two levels. I was more than a little proud to see the following plaque outside a top-floor room:
And here are Wendy Shum and me sitting in the very classroom –
You give a woman a pair of needles and a ball of yarn and slowly she will begin to change the world. Nothing short of miraculous. Way to go, ladies of the Shanghai Knitting Guild! My hat’s off to you!
Back outside, we took our VIP seats and watched the kids and village spectators finish filing into the courtyard. 
There was a little trouble with the national anthem; the loudspeaker kept jolting from one military song to another and the child charged with hoisting the flag began to worry.
Finally, the headmaster took control and had the children sing the national anthem, which they did enthusiastically.
His shirt, like those worn by many others, is a hand-me-down from a child attending Dulwich School in Shanghai.
There were a number of speeches, most of which I didn’t understand. Jo Charles’ talk reminded us that “education is power” and pointedly urged the villagers to send all their girls as well as boys to the new school. We bet that that soundbyte didn’t make the local TV news. There was more singing and dancing. The kids were really working hard, and some appeared quite hot in all that clothing. We could only imagine that they had been waiting for us for hours, as well.
Afterward, we were led back to the old school for a feast.
inside an old classroom
Confirming our suspicions, the villagers had killed both a cow and a pig and roasted them, along with potatoes, corn and buckwheat cakes, which they served to us and the officials.
honored with the ceremonial cutting of the pig's head
And, of course, there was the infamous bai jiu (white lightning). Technically, you are supposed to toast each host/guest three times, each time downing a shot. I had three shots and felt my head spin.
Cindy shares a toast with the headmaster
All this while, the villagers waited outside. They would eat only when we were finished.
In the heat of the afternoon, with the effects of the bai jiu still being felt, we went on a short tour of the village. We were shown several houses which ranged from rudimentary to extremely rudimentary.
cooking facilities inside a home
meat hanging from the rafters
more meat on the way -- these guys are owned by a "rich" family
storage loft inside a home
We finally said goodbye and left Happiness Village, pondering , during the long ride home, what we had seen and what we had not seen. Running water, for example. Or books — proud as we are of the accomplishment, it’s hard to imagine a school with no books at all. Maybe getting books to the kids is next on the list. Ideas, anyone?
Jo Charles and the Happiness Village headmaster
schoolteacher
As we came down from the clouds, we marveled at all the terracing — people work hard to grow crops. 
Sometimes only 5-6 people come (when the weather is bad), but sometimes there have been as many as 30. Most of the conversation is in English, but sometimes I can manage in the Chinese-speaking corner — I just have to remind them to speak standard Mandarin, please, not Shanghainese! (And when the conversation slides into German, I’m lost.) Now I provide the needles and the yarn — and the chocolate chip cookies!
(This Sunday morning it was hopping.)
By far the longest line was for Filipino adobo and lumpia!
