Archive for December, 2008

Bling Bling New Year to You

Wednesday, December 31st, 2008

In Shanghai’s dim, dark past — say, about five years ago — Christmas was celebrated quietly. After all, it’s not really a Chinese holiday. There were very few signs of Christmas on the streets, and you had to know where to get the trimmings for your own celebration. For example, I learned from an American friend that decorations were sold on the second floor of the flower market, a building that had begun life as a dog racetrack in the 1920s. When my son said that he’d like to have a tree, I suggested that he drag the potted orange tree inside from the balcony. (Ok, I was a little grouchy.)

All that has changed now. The flower market was torn down a couple of years ago. Shanghai has embraced Christmas and there are lights and Christmas trees and poinsettias everywhere. bling1

In fact, Christmas decorations are sometimes put up after Christmas day and mingle with red lanterns, as the festivities ellide with the Chinese New Year celebration, which begins this year on the night of January 24. This makes for a very pleasant atmosphere through winter’s darkest days and nights.

But sometimes the decorations are a little off.  These pandas don’t quite reflect the Christmas spirit, after all. bling2

And here’s another sign, ubiquitous in the commercial and shopping district of Xujiahui, that missed the mark and made us laugh.

bling3

Still, perhaps only in China can the message be conveyed in pearls.

bling4

As I write, darkness has fallen on 2008 and there are — of course — fireworks in the distance. To all of you I send my very best wishes for a bling bling 2009!

You Just Never Know

Wednesday, December 10th, 2008

I opened the kitchen door. I was leaving to go get prints made of some of the construction workers to give to them. And what did I encounter? Oh no, they had dug up the sewer again.

You know me by now — handy with my camera. But the boss reacted angrily. He spoke sharply and, as I took another shot, made a swipe at my camera. I backed away saying, I am going to give your workers their pictures. I think that they will like them. He wasn’t mollified. You let me see what’s on the camera and see if I like it. I just walked on.

A couple of hours later, I returned with 30 prints of workers smiling or ignoring me. Nothing ugly or embarrassing. But I wasn’t so sure I should give them out after all. I asked Wang ayi. She said I should definitely give them the pix, so I dragged her along on the mission. One guy took one, and didn’t say anything.  Then the boss walked up and Wang ayi handed the stack to him. Apparently most of the workers I photographed have either gone home for the day or moved on to another site. But, as they are migrant workers, they all live together at the same dormitory a few blocks away. The boss said he would give the pictures to the right people tonight. Thank you, I said. And he thanked me back. I’ll take your photo if you like and give it to you later, I offered.

When he didn’t respond to that, Wang ayi nudged me to urge me along.  I took several photos, counting aloud to 3 in case he wanted to pose, but the boss didn’t look up.

The Big Dig

Wednesday, December 10th, 2008

So here is the answer to What in the heck are they doing now? (Okay, it hasn’t really taken me this long to figure it out.) Can you tell?

Still haven’t gotten it? Here’s the view from further back. They appeared one day and we had a pretty good idea.

Sewer pipe replacement. (New words added to the Chinese vocabulary.)

The jackhammering went on for days and was followed by picks and shovels as the guys got deeper, eventually over their heads. We made our way along a narrow path, rubbing shoulders with the workers pushing out heavy carts of rubble.

Early on, I made a call I never would have thought I’d have to make to my husband, who had been away for two days. I had to warn him that when he came home late at night in the dark, he wouldn’t be able to get in through our main entrance, through the garden. Here’s the view, on such a day:

Instead, his best bet was to try the kitchen door, but he should be careful not to step to the right of the stoop, or set his bags there

because under that flimsy piece of bamboo fencing was a 6-foot hole ending in the open sewer. I know; I made the mistake of lifting it. Phew!

Every day, I took to posting signs to advise friends which door was their best option. (I also advised them to approach wearing combat boots.)

One friend called and said that after wandering in the lane, she was afraid she wouldn’t be able to get across our moat.

In the middle of all this, the painters finally returned to the garden to finish the trim.

If you looked at that photo and wondered whether they guys were going to come into the house to paint the outside of the door, the answer is yes. If you also wondered why nobody covered the floor or my perilously close sofa, well, I wondered that, too.

And one day, when I had concluded that the front gate was impassable and had decided to carry a lot of heavy bags out the kitchen door instead, I opened the door and almost got green paint swiped across my face! No photo of that, but here’s the painter, taken from inside the kitchen.

I’ve had more than a few questions along the way.

For example, wouldn’t it have made sense to do the messy sewer replacement before the painting and primping?

And what is this woman doing? I swear, I think sometimes people passing through or hanging around just pick up a tool and have a go at it.

And will this replacement of exterior sewers improve the interior plumbing for some of our lanes’ residents? I hope so, but fear not.

And a more personal, urgent question when I saw blocks of rubble going up for the zillionth time in front of the garden gate on Thanksgiving morning: would my guests be able to gain entry to eat turkey? The answer, happily, was yes. Wang ayi, our housekeeper, went outside and explained the situation. Soon one of the workers had carted the rubble to the side and laid out a red carpet, so to speak — and promptly parked his bicycle on it.

It’s still going on. Seven days a week, we wake up around 6:30 to the sounds of slamming, hammering, or pounding. But there is progress.  After completely digging up the area outside the kitchen again last week

drains were installed

and it’s passable again. I have high hopes for the new year!

And my relations with the workers are now harmonious. After edgily demanding to know why I took so many photos of them at first (answer: because I find it remarkable and strange that you can enter private property at will and I am going to photograph it!), they now smile and sometimes pose.

Last week, when I had a lot to carry out, one fellow loaded it into his empty cart and wheeled it out to the car on the street for me. (Sorry, no photos of that — I was too startled and delighted.)

Today I am going to get some of these photos printed and give them to the workers. If I have time, I will make them some Christmas cookies.