Squanto would approve

November 23rd, 2011

Thanksgiving. Again.

If you are hoping for entertaining stories about buying a turkey in a country where everything but turkey is eaten, or about how to store your frozen turkey since your fridge here is miniature (ask the store to keep it and deliver it), or how to thaw it (in a plastic bin, moved from garden to balcony to keep the cats out), flip through my back posts. This is, after all, year 8 for me in China. Thanksgiving buffets abound now in Shanghai and I barely know anyone here any more to cook for. We are going to a restaurant tomorrow.

But it turns out I do have a little Thanksgiving story to share after all. Here is a photo of the tree in our garden that lured us to rent the house where we live.And here’s the perspective from our living room:There were even more of the fruits before — I think that they are clementines in English; in Mandarin they are juzi – but we have already started picking and eating.

Today Wang ayi, our housekeeper, asked me, didn’t I think that there were more fruit this year? And bigger? And sweeter?

I had to agree on all counts.

She beamed. The reason, she explained, is that while I was gone for such a long time this summer, she put yu (yu like you eat, she gestured while explaining; yes, I get it — fish!)  all around the tree. It stunk something fierce in the heat, she went on, but it was worth it.

Yuck. Rotting fish outside in my garden in Shanghai in July. I hope it didn’t bother our neighbors. I wonder if the fish stink has anything to do with the perpetual stink in the ground floor powder room. Nah, let’s not go there.

Instead, let’s be grateful for the bountiful harvest. And note that rotting fish seems to be key — in China as well as in the Massachusetts story. Happy Thanksgiving, everybody!

Men at Work (Not!)

October 24th, 2011

Back in the lane, back in my tingzijian.

And plus ca change, plus c’est la meme chose. The rotten floorboards have been replaced, but the big stink in the powder room is back. And a tad of demolition is going on at the house two doors away, as you can clearly see from my bedroom balcony and hear from anywhere in the house, all day long.

The other night around 9:30 my neighbor texted me: “Can you believe what’s going on out there?”

Apparently a bulldozer had arrived at the entrance of our little lane, intending to roll down and clear away the rubble. Now, just as a reminder, here is what our lane looks like. (The house undergoing demolition is at the end.)Not a lot of room here for a bulldozer.

My neighbor said that her husband and the man next door, as well as the elected head honcho of our lane, were out defending our territory from invasion, especially at night. I was already tucked in with a book, in my pjs, and my own husband was away. I may have had a sexist thought: Bulldozers and all. Let the men handle it.

My neighbor later said that the menfolk were successful, but she was pretty sure the bulldozer would be back soon, “probably at midnight.”

The next day I was walking on the street a block behind our lane, and I came across this. Mind you, I had not seen the bulldozer in our lane, and heavy equipment is a common sight everywhere in town. But I wondered whether this might be our enemy, at the ready for another charge. So I photographed it to show my neighbor.

Taking the picture made me take a closer look. There, where I guess there are foot pedals. (I’m assuming the thing has brakes and an accelerator, maybe a clutch to operate it.) What do you see?You go, girl! But maybe you could find some more comfortable shoes?

If the bulldozer comes back, no matter what time it is, I will definitely go out in the lane and check out the operator’s footwear.

Moon-gazing

September 13th, 2011

My dear friend Sara, who writes a travel blog about China for about.com (look right, see the blogroll) has just complained  to the weather gods. Once again, apparently, the clouds were out in full force over Shanghai and so, for 中秋节, zhong qie jie (Mid-Autumn Festival) on Monday night, it was  impossible to engage in the traditional activity of moon-gazing. (As I recall, we had this problem last year, too.)

So, not to rub it in or anything, I thought I would send a photo I took a couple of minutes ago here where I am, which happens to be absolutely alone on a lake in northern Ontario. (Remember we are 12 hours behind.)

Why do they call it Mid-Autumn Festival anyhow? Isn’t autumn just beginning today? Not that you would know that here.  A cold front is due tonight and by Wednesday the temperature will range from 4 – 11 degrees (that’s 40-51 F). Since the cottage has only a small fireplace for heat, and no insulation, that’s enough to send me packing — along with the hummingbirds and sandhill cranes who have made their exit and the bluejays who are flocking (!) and geese who wake me in the morning with all their honking as they fly over.

Goodbye solitude, goodbye small cottage, goodbye lake, flat and with whitecaps, goodbye kingfisher who blinks at me from the other end of the dock. Goodbye trees and goodbye silence. And goodbye moon. See you next year.

Back to Shanghai, I.  I’ll write again when I’m safely back in the lane in the city of 23 million people.

Protected: Algoma Power’s “Vegetation Maintenance” on Llewellyn Beach

September 12th, 2011

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Book Review: Troy Parfitt’s Why China Will Never Rule the World

September 10th, 2011

By the time I get back to Shanghai in a couple of weeks, I will have been away in North America for more than three months. But lest I forget what life in that fair city is like, I just read Troy Parfitt’s provocatively-titled book, Why China Will Never Rule the World, which will be published next week. The author is a Canadian native who spent a decade teaching English in Taiwan. As an observer “weary of hearing China being labeled a superpower or a great nation, with those terms seldom being qualified,” he set off on a tour of the People’s Republic to investigate and arrive at the truth.

With notepad firmly in hand, the author travels through seventeen provinces, as well as Hong Kong, and ends the book with a trip through his long-time home of Taiwan. From the beginning, I found myself shaking my head in rueful recognition of his clear-eyed travelogue: I, too, have had many of his experiences, ranging from the unpleasant boat tour down the Yangtze Rive to unhelpful travel agencies and hotel receptionists who don’t even know the name of the street on which they are located. Many are the times that I have been irritated and shouted back at insulting remarks about or aimed at the foreigner (me). And, like the author, I have laughed in puzzlement at many of the hilarious translations of signs in public places, and failed to laugh at the revisionist version of “history” in many museums.

I also learned a lot, as Mr. Parfitt has done a lot of research and has artfully woven his knowledge of history into his travel narrative. In particular, he de-mythologizes both Mao Zedong and Chiang Kai-Shek, describing how the former searched his groin for lice in the middle of a speech and once took off his pants to cool himself off during an interview, and how the latter hid in a cave during the Xian Incident in 1936. Among the startling historical tidbits of the book: Mao had Lou Gehrig’s disease; the massacre that took place on June 4, 1989, in Beijing occurred not in Tiananmen Square, but a few kilometers away on Changan Street. (In fact, Mr. Parfitt’s account of what happened is rather confusing.)

In an effort to determine what China has to offer the rest of the world, the author discusses the philosophical underpinnings of Chinese culture, as compared to western culture:

Socrates believed that the status quo ought to be continually questioned and challenged. That would make for a better and more just society. Furthermore, citizens are morally bound to scrutinize those in authority. Confucius believed that the status quo must never be questioned or challenged. It may only be altered by those in authority. Consequently, change in a Confucian society occurs incrementally, if it occurs at all. Presently, China and its culture and society are being touted as dynamic, but that is the very thing they aren’t.

Still, the book disappointed in several ways. First is that Mr. Parfitt seemed to lack patience and was often just plain bad-tempered in his travels, quick to ascribe the worst motives to people (many of whom he, a stranger, must have caught off guard with his questions about Taiwan, democracy, and what China offers the world), and also unduly surprised when people were friendly and wanted nothing from him. A larger concern, however, is that the author reaches conclusions to very big questions in reliance on superficial encounters with people, not upon lasting relationships or ongoing conversations with people who have reason to be particularly thoughtful. (I shudder to imagine what one would learn about Canada or the United States simply by driving around from small town to big city and talking to random people in restaurants, at tourist sites, etc., about important issues of the day.) And when the author reaches a conclusion, he rants and exaggerate; one of many examples is: “Traditional Chinese culture is a shackle, and Chinese history is a dungeon from which it is impossible to escape.” Really — Chinese culture has nothing to offer the west? How about the practice of discipline in one’s endeavors…or the strong work ethic, just to begin with obvious examples.

Nevertheless, the author has a point – many of them, in fact. I, too, wince when I hear that this century belongs to China, or that it is now, or is about to become, a superpower – partly because I don’t know what  those labels mean or why we need them. I agree that rather than parroting these mindless assertions based on the Pudong skyline or the high speed train system, we need to strive for a deeper understanding, based, in part, on history. And whether or not you agree with his conclusions, at least Mr. Parfitt is asking very good questions.

Crash

June 19th, 2011

I thought that there had been an earthquake, really, I did.

But it could have been an intruder and I was alone in the house, so I slunk down the stairs…. And this is what I found in the living room.

Yes, that is indeed a Chinese wedding chest that has tumbled over, launching a heavy television set toward a sofa where I had been sitting a mere 10 minutes earlier.

Here’s why:

The floor had given way and the front leg fell through.

And, yes, when my husband walked over to inspect the situation the next morning, his foot broke through, too.

Yuck, it’s wet down there — just normal Shanghai dampness, I was told. If I were a mouse like the one who ran through the living room last week, I’d want to get out of there, too.

And here’s what Xiao Gu, our landlord’s repairman, bless his sweet heart, brought for repairs.A saw and a caulking gun. Right.

So, the next time you envy me my life in an elegant old house down a Shanghai lane, remember that it has three tall stories, and apparently rotten floors. I know, everything has its pluses and minuses. But, please, try to temper your romantic notions with thoughts of sewer gas backup, and faucets in the shower that give a low-level buzz of electricity. There now– that’s more like it.

How Does It Feel?

April 13th, 2011

Let’s see, I felt old. Fat. Astonished at the large congregation of paunchy, middle-aged waiguo ren who turned out Friday night to hear Bob Dylan on his first tour of China. Well maybe not, since I saw a similar group turn out in the same stadium a few years ago to hear The Rolling Stones. Seriously, who knew that there are so many of us here.

Surprised — that the growly voice that sounded like it should belong to a Wild Thing or another nightmare was really all that’s left of Dylan’s distinctive nasal tone.

Not amused — that the old protest singer wasn’t allowed to sing The Times Are A’Changin’ here in China, where the times are apparently not going to change even a little bit, come hell or high water. (At least when the Rolling Stones were forbidden to sing Brown Sugar and Honky Tonk Woman, Mick Jagger had something clever to say about it at a press conference: We wouldn’t want to corrupt the morals of expatriate bankers and their Chinese girlfriends, now would we?)

Ok, and a bit like a rolling stone, you know, being an expat again for seven years now.

Here’s the man himself — in case you can’t be sure, he’s the one on the far right at the keyboard (I think it’s a keyboard!).

Now I can tell my kids that I saw him. Except that they don’t seem to care.

Too True

April 1st, 2011

Monday morning, the Shanghai Daily reported that more than thirty 50-year-old plane trees had been removed overnight from Maoming Lu. Apparently the work was done quickly at 11 pm on Saturday night — presumably so that it would be over with before anybody had time to notice what was happening. The article said that, according to a notice, the trees had been dug up to make room for the subway and would be re-planted elsewhere.

I know, with people’s homes coming down for new construction, you can’t expect much protection for old trees. Still, the plane trees that line Shanghai’s streets lend much to the city’s character. In the summer, the trees are the only reason it’s possible to walk around during the daytime, as they provide desperately needed shade.

And between December and May, when they are mere skeletons, Shanghai’s historical layer comes alive, its old architecture suddenly visible.

For a year and a half now, the trees on Huaihai Lu, a main shopping avenue, have lit up the night.I’ve often wondered how the tough old things survive, what with the small area of exposed soil to collect water, the pollution, and general abuse they receive.

Maddeningly, the Shanghai Daily didn’t say which block of Maoming Lu lost its trees. But, because it was a nice day today, I decided to walk the length of it — a lovely hour outside. Sure enough, just south of Nanjing Lu, here’s what I found.Dirty concrete plugs where trees should have been.

No doubt the neighbors across the street will find it a bit warmer this summer. As for that promise that the trees would be replanted… you can imagine for yourself whether the roots of a 50-year-old tree in this spot could possibly have been saved.

Purple

March 28th, 2011

I’ve had my eye on this stall around the corner for a few weeks now. Behind the counter, the help are wearing purple outfits and serving up something that’s apparently pretty special.But what have they got that the purple-dressed workers at other snack stalls, say this one about 20 feet further along the road, don’t have? I guess I could have gotten in the line to find out. But instead, I waited for the woman in the plaid coat to finish her purchase and turn toward me.“Excuse me, what are they selling here?”  I asked her in my best Chinese.

She didn’t hesitate. “Purple blah-blah-blah,” I think she answered.

“Is it good to eat?” Duh, I thought. I guess that’s obvious.

“I don’t know.” She shrugged. “This is the first time I’ve tried it.” And then she stepped further away from the crowd, reached into her sack, and pulled up a purple box. “Try it,” she said, opening the box.

“Oh no, thank you, I just wanted to know what they’re selling.” I shook my head.

Lai, lai, come on,” she insisted.

Ni tai keqi le, you are too polite,” I replied, and started to back away. But she really insisted, and so I stuck my hand in and took a pinch of steamed purple yam coated in sesame seeds and popped it in my mouth. Delicious. I said so.

“Take more,” she said, gesturing.  I was afraid she was going to give me the whole box.

“Thanks so much,” I said, “But I will get in line.” And I did.

There are, of course, no photos of this exchange and that’s a good thing. I’m sure my face was about the color of the yam.

But every time I’m nonplussed by someone pushing to get past me — last week, a woman tried to shove her way into my toilet stall before I was out of it — I’m gonna have to remember that there are also people who will invite a nosy stranger to stick her grubby hand into their food and share.

Salt-free

March 17th, 2011

Wang ayi, our housekeeper,  told me this morning that you can’t buy yan in Shanghai. I didn’t understand. Maybe she meant potassium iodide. I knew that there was a run on this yesterday from the Shanghai Daily, which my son swears reported, in an early online edition, that people could take cyanide to protect their thyroid glands in the event that a cloud of radiation should reach Shanghai. (Yeah, if you take cyanide, I guess you won’t need to worry about thyroid cancer….)

Yan. She reached for my salt shaker to bang into my head what she was saying. Salt? Why would there be a run on salt?

She didn’t know. Maybe, she surmised,  because salt comes from the sea, and the sea is now unsafe, thanks to radiation from Japan. She herself has 4 jin (half-kilos, or — roughly — pounds) of salt in her (tiny) apartment.

I have about one cup of salt in my house. Chinese people eat more salt than foreigners, she tells me. Thinking about our American diet, I find that hard to believe.

And wasn’t it just a couple of days ago that we read in the Shanghai Daily about a scam whereby industrial salt was being repackaged and sold as table salt? And that industrial salt “contains harmful nitrite substances which can cause dizziness, stomach pains, damage kidneys and – if large quantities are consumed – lead to death.” http://www.shanghaidaily.com/article/?id=466367&type=Metro.

Maybe it’s okay that I missed the boat on salt. And who knows, maybe it will even lower our blood pressure.